Life is a Cabernet! – Hesperian Wines Napa Valley

Two college friends on the phone being silly and excited about a new wine: “Life is a Cabernet old chum, life is a Cabernet“.  So began the story behind this review. A play on song lyrics from days before our time. But we won’t go there.

Celebration was in the air. Friends overdue for a wine-tasting and the news that Whine and Cheers for Wine had cracked the TOP 100 WINE BLOGS by Feedspot:  Best 100 Wine Blogs, Websites And Newsletters To Follow in 2019.

The stage set; wine glasses, note pads, decanters, Coravin, glass identifiers etc. We were even ready for possible pairings; cheeses, charcuterie, nuts, and chocolates along with water crackers for palate cleansing. I say “possible” pairings because as I told the parties involved: “this is all about the wine”.  We may pair, we may not. Eventually we did, but not before spending a long time getting to know the wines individually and comparatively. 

 

 

Hesperian Wines come with quite the pedigree thanks to winemaker Philippe Langner and his hands-on experiences from Bordeaux to South Africa and now California with a Rothschild influence here or there.

From Hesperian Wines:

California’s  persistent  call  is  an  inspiration  for  the  name  for  his  domaine.  Hesperian,  or  “One  of  The  West,”  is  a  name  that  invokes  the  mythical  garden  of  Hesperides,  a  blissful  twilight  orchard  in  the  west  where  Hercules  once  tricked  Atlas  into  helping  him  complete  his  eleventh  labor.Today  Philippe  has  chosen  to  make  his  home  and  his  life’s  work  in  one  place:  a  steep,  rocky,  14-acre  vineyard  named  “Kitoko”,  the  Congolese  Lingala  word  for  “beautiful.”  This  is  the  place  he  has  chosen  to  fulfill  his  vision,  combining  his  exacting  knowledge  of  viticulture  and  his  constant  quest  for  precision—indeed  perfection—in  winemaking. 

As some of my Whine and Cheers followers may know, I prefer to know as little as possible about a wine prior to a private tasting. In a way I enjoy the discovery aspect of the relationship we are about to build.  With the history or backstory hopefully  sealing the deal.  Leaving me wanting more and looking forward to a second date.

Hearing myself as I write about my passion and the romance behind it I have come to realize that there are wines you date and wines you marry. I have now learned:  Hesperian Wines are the marrying kind.

Two wines. Both from Hesperian and wine-maker Philippe Lagner, both 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and both from the 2015 vintage. Available through their web-site and via Club Membership.  How do the wines differ? The Hesperian Napa Valley ($100) was created by combining wines (50/50)  from Coombsville and Kitoko Vineyard on Atlas Peak. The Hesperian Kitoko Vineyard ($150) is sourced entirely from the fourteen acre Kitoko Vineyard. Only 300 cases of each were produced.

-Hesperian Napa Valley notes;

Bold nose with new wood [oak] at forefront and a dark fruit background. In addition on the palate our descriptors included; spices (black pepper),  leather (even more so on the second pour),  forest floor mossiness.  This smooth,  balanced, structured, elegant wine was all old-world style and the farthest from a fruit bomb a California wine could be.

Vintner notes: 2015 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon ~ Napa Valley

With a toasty, Pauillac-like profile, this has plummy and sweet fruit, with aromas that are the essence of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, a distinctive leathery-fruity smell of its own. The Wine Advocate noted its notes of “licorice, tar, black soil and sautéed herbs over a core of cassis, plum preserves and espresso with a hint of bouquet garni.” Rated 93 points James Suckling

 

-Our Hesperian Kitoko Vineyard notes:

A softer/demure nose when compared to the Napa Valley above. New wood (oak) at the forefront with red fruit compote in background. In addition on the palate; chocolate, lilac, a peaty earthiness, concentrated dry fruit (fig), anise. This single vineyard wine came across as smoother, more delicate yet wilder. It was incredible to see it develop and  come to life in a 20 minute time-span.

Vintner notes: 2015 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Kitoko Vineyard ~ Napa Valley

This wine has it all. Made from 10 tons of fruit from 14 acres, low yields caused by “shatter from hell,” according to Philippe -this flaunts notes of tiramisu, black cherry liqueur, spicy oak, and money ink. The Wine Advocate loved its “cassis, crushed blackberries, cigar box and Marmite toast nose with hints of Chinese five spice and dried mint.” Gorgeous red and black fruit aromas interplay effortlessly. Rated 94 points THE WINE ADVOCATE. Rated 93 points James Suckling.

 

As you can probably tell by my accolades thus far, these wines were both big hits. Each had its own character and yet some similarities and both can easily age for ten plus years for the collectors out there. The 100% Kitoko Vineyard wine seemed more focused and wilder while the Hesperian Napa Valley came across as bold, rounder with more nuances. Probably due to the blend of the two vineyards; Kitoko and Coombsville. We found both to be inspiring in their own way and considered ourselves lucky to not have to choose between them. Each of these old-world style wines took you on a journey that you did not want to end.

As per Hesperian Wines web-site: Philippe  lives  and  works  at  Kitoko  Vineyard  on  Atlas  Peak,  and  continues  to  consult  on  viticulture  and  winemaking  matters  for  select  Napa  Valley  wineries.  I find myself now looking forward to trying other vintages, previous and future, from Hesperian Wines and other wines produced by Philippe Langner.

How refreshing it is to have this kind of wine coming out of  Napa Valley.  How lucky are we to have someone of this caliber focused on celebrating the worthiness of individual varietals the way they were meant to be experienced. In this case, Life IS a Cabernet!

¡SALUD! 

Additional notes from Hesperian Wines:

Vintage 2017 Outlook

March 31st, 2019

The 2017s were blended in February and put back to barrel. It takes a while for the various lots that went intothe three blends to really integrate well. The wines are coming along nicely. Get ready for very big wines with the ‘17s. This was the vintage of the fire, and I’m very happy and relieved to report that there is no smoke taint in the wines. (I’ve had others smell and taste Hesperian’s ‘17s, and they tell me the same. Relief!)

The 2018s are fantastic, perhaps the best wines I’ve made so far. We are almost done with the first racking; some wines were starting to reduce a bit and they needed some air. Alas, we have to be patient. We won’t see these wines coming available until 2021.

 

Disclosure: media sample; all thoughts & opinions included in this post/ review are my own.

 

 

The Calling – Wine Spectator Grand Tour

This last week I had the pleasure of working the Wine Spectator Grand Tour during its Miami Florida stop. One of three nationwide events including the cities of Las Vegas and Chicago.

From Wine Spectator

An evening of exceptional wines from the world’s best wine-growing regions in three exciting locations. All wines are rated 90 points or higher by Wine Spectator’s editors. Meet the winemakers, enjoy a delicious selection of food and take home a souvenir Riedel wine glass. 

This years Wine Spectator Grand Tour was held at the world-famous and historically significant Fontainbleau Hotel located on Miami Beach. The lobby and its bar alone are worthy of a visit, not to mention the beautiful grounds, pools, spa, restaurants and of course its beautiful beach.

With over 200 wines to sample and explore (wine-list), many with wine-makers and/or winery owners present, this event was a wine-lovers paradise. My assignment for the evening was to represent the California winery The Calling and serve their highly rated, Wine Spectator 91 point, 2015 Russian River Dutton Ranch Chardonnay.

The story of The Calling

It was serendipity that brought Emmy Award winning sports commentator Jim Nantz and wine industry entrepreneur Peter Deutsch together at a restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut where they were each having dinner with friends. Peter had recently read Jim’s book about his father, Always By My Side, and it resonated with him, reminding him of his own relationship with his father. Peter introduced himself that evening.

Jim was at the restaurant having dinner with a friend who had contacts in the wine industry and was working on an idea that had been in development for years. Jim had long held a passion for wine and was exploring how to take the next step in becoming involved in the wine business when Peter stopped by the table. As fate would have it, that chance meeting would spawn a friendship and partnership, the Deutsch Nantz Alliance (DNA).

Theirs has been a hands-on collaboration. Jim and Peter traveled together to California and worked closely with renowned winemakers Dan Goldfield, Wayne Donaldson, and James MacPhail on every step of the wine-making process, from vineyard to bottle. They also poured themselves into the packaging process, working to capture the essence of the brand in the label design. For Jim and Peter, The Calling is about pursuing a passion, inspiring others, and making a great wine.

Having the opportunity to work with affable wine-maker James MacPhail throughout the night and being able to ask questions about the process, vintage, etc was like icing on the cake for this wine geek.  His shared knowledge along with the quality of The Calling Chardonnay made our evening very successful and fun for all. Throughout the night we were surrounded by nothing but praise from the attendees. With many asking where to buy and return visits to our table to let us know The Calling was a favorite of the night.

Aged 11 months sur-lie in french oak, using approximately 35% new oak, with frequent batonage and malolactic fermentation done in the barrel. I found this beautifully rich and balanced Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch Chardonnay to be perfectly made to satisfy the gamut of Chardonnay drinkers. Tropical fruit notes, crisp acidity and its round richness on the palate were attributes and accolades we heard from guests throughout this special tasting event. And I have to admit I agree. With accolades from Wine Spectator; a 91 point score and a spot on their TOP 100 wine list for 2017, this wine deserves all the attention it gets.

To getting The Calling!   ¡SALUD!

The Calling Chardonnay is presently available on-line and at your local Total Wine and More store through their Winery Direct program. Price range: $32-$36.00.

I need to be drinking more Merlot!

 

Such was the impression made by this wine that I actually noted I need to be drinking more Merlot if it tastes like this! in my tasting notes. This Paso Robles 2016 Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot left quite the mark.

I’ve known about the Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon for quite some time having featured it at our local Whole Foods. Every time we highlighted it with sale pricing, event tastings or big displays, its following would grow. Many a new customer returned for more.

Winery info provided:

Broadside produces wines focused on purity and true varietal expression. We favor balance and simplicity, giving consumers a window to the promise of the central coast and varietal character.. Our wine-making employs a natural approach in that our wines are minimally handled to best express the grape, site and vintage. We harvest at lower sugars and use little to no new oak to create wines of balance and finesse that make sense on the dinner table. 

As a big fan of California’s Paso Robles wine region I have always been drawn to anything Paso Robles [click for more info]. I hate to generalize but I have never had a bad wine from this Appellation/AVA (American Viticultural Area) , and I can only say that about three to four sites around the world.

Paso Robles info:

Paso Robles Wine Country is an American Viticultural Area located in the San Luis Obispo County, California. It has approximately 40,000 vineyard acres planted with wine grapes, and is well known for its heritage varietal Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Rhône-style wines. 

Although its been a while since I poured Merlot, they have tended to be from Washington State wineries. Big, bold and expensive comes to mind. So I was blown away at the on-line pricing of under $20,  if available. This wine easily tastes twice as expensive if not even more.

Broadside Sustainability info:

all of our fruit is sourced from sustainable sources. These vineyards are either SIP, GLOBALG.A.P. certified, or both. With our long-term commitments and direct involvement in these vineyards, we steer farming towards a simple, hands-off approach keeping both chemical (organic or otherwise) and water use to an absolute minimum. We are the first solar-powered winery in Paso Robles’ Tin City, and have taken several steps beyond that to limit impact on our immediate environment.

My notes:

On the nose; red fruit, tropical fruit (fig pulp), slight dry wood notes (vanilla, tobacco, leather), most likely from the fact that they use used oak barrels versus new wood.

On the palate; balanced! (yes with the exclamation point), red fruit at the front, not a fruit bomb, more so dark fruit notes on the finish, luscious legs on the glass, and the previously quoted: I need to be drinking more Merlot if it tastes like this! Yes, with the exclamation point again.

Winery Tasting Notes:

Vivid ruby. Cherry, cassis and succulent herbs on the fragrant nose, joined
by a slowly building tobacco nuance. Plush and supple in texture, showing good depth to
the lively bitter cherry and black currant flavors. A smoky note appears on the finish,
which features velvety tannins and lingering dark berry character.

Brian and Stephy Terrizzi are the winemaker-viticulturist power couple behind  Broadside wines. Their dedication to this wine and the wine-making process shines through with their message making it to the wine buyer, the glass and the wine drinker.

If you get the opportunity to try this wine, do not hesitate. You may even come to regret, as I now do, having only bought one bottle….. ¡SALUD!